Stone Care Basics

The basics of stone care include the following do’s and dont’s.

Dos* Eliminate any spill as soon as possible.

Have the mats in place, and better still a plan to remove the shoes when you enter. Customers who take off shoes have an enormous advantage in keeping the floor look great.By clicking we get more information about the go bungee diving on the strip off the Stratosphere

Have a weekly or weekly cleanup strategy. There should be three components in this strategy: 1-a way to sweep or vacuum 2-a mopping system 3-a cleaning solution that does not require rinsing. We recommend a micro-fibre mop along with a stone grade cleaner for mopping and cleaning.

If you are vacuuming, make sure the tile surface is not scratched by your vacuum.

Have on-site your own floor cleaners and bathroom cleaners and don’t let the cleaning companies bring their cleaners home. A large percentage of our work is based on acid-based products that etch the stone using cleaning services.

Remove these: bathroom cleaners such as tilex, white vinegar, so-called “miracle cleaners,” advertised on late night television, fruit and vegetable beverages, soft drinks, certain perfumes and cosmetics, toothpaste, mouthwash. Such low ph solutions will etch the stone and need polishing with abrasive diamonds.

Have a plan in place and avoid soliciting opinions from others who may know less about your stone floor than you do. Even the installers and sales staff often lack fundamental understanding of the basics of stone care.

Don’ts:* Mop only with water. This will encourage them to dash. Find a product that doesn’t need to be rinsed, but may be left on to dry.

Use a stronger dilution ratio than stated on any direction of stone cleaners. Maximum one to two ounces is best. If you use more this will affect the creation of a video.

Apply sealers constantly to your stone. Many top cleaners with stone counters have a sealer in them, and a residue will develop.

“Water marks” and “rings” The low ph (acid) liquids affect all calcite-based stones (marble, travertine, onyx, calcite). The subsequent acid touch creates an etch. Glass artist etch glass using acids. Etchings can be dissolved in cement, but only through the use of abrasive powders, polishes or diamond pads connected to an angle grinder or floor cleaner.

Some stones are softer than others, and scratched easily. If a scratch is really deep it may require going to a low grit level (say 50 grit for example) and then progressing up through several honing cuts (100,200,400 grit) which can be a time-consuming and expensive process. Also avoid rolling over stone flooring heavy furniture such as pianos, because these items may cause deep marks called stun crystals. They are permanent and are not removable with honing.

Grout management is necessary for any instillation of natural stones. The main problem with grouting natural stone is that using (wall grade) non-sanded grout is required for instillation. When using sanded grout the installer would scratch the tile during the process of instillation. When non-sanded grout is most commonly used. When non-sanded grout is exposed to real life setting, it becomes soiled and will begin to chip away and holes develop at some point. These holes need repairing through regrouting.

Finally, take some time to assess the type of finish that your installer or stone professional will be applying. A large percentage of the restoration work we do falls from misused sealers. We also caution against the use of crystallization systems where the surface is coated using steel wool sheets. Sealers have a role in the treatment of stone surfaces, but it is better to have a small area checked to see what the sealer would feel like before adding to the whole.